They are a great example of our new Bespoke Manufactured range. Hand lasted, hand welted with a machine stitched sole. So you get all the advantages of a bespoke fit combined with the cushioning of a crepe sole. The customer was very keen to have a soft foot-bed. So we made foam inserts for the insoles and a wedge platform rather than the classic sole and heel seen on these desert boots. Crepe is a very comfortable sole material.

Also, he wanted a stand-out colour hence the French Navy Nubuck. Some fear that Nubuck is a delicate leather, but we spray it with Teflon for weather-proofing. And if you brush it regularly with a suede brush, they keep their peachy finish for a long time.

UPPERS: French navy nubuck; blind eyelets; 5 lace holes; straight cap; counter; single stitching throughout; stitched in tongue

LINING: veg tanned straw coloured calf

MAKING: hand lasted; hand welted; machine stitched crepe sole; wedge sole; foam cushioned insole

For another example of hybrid Oxford shoes, take a look at these.

Bespoke trees are optional and this customer chose not to have them.

The post Allerton Oxford Shoe appeared first on Carreducker.

We used a beautiful plum Italian veg tanned leather with a heavy 2mm substance which looks fabulous but is also robust enough to keep your ankles warm, helped by the stylish rabbit fur cuff. This leather is from Italy and is tanned with natural vegetable tanning agents which give it a greater depth and interest. It will age beautifully with a little variation in colour to give a vintage effect. We have polished it with black polish to heighten this effect.

We included a bellows tongue for weather proofing and a thick insole for inner protection which allows the exterior sole to remain light and elegant. Of course we can add a rubber sole for those customers who need a little more protection from the elements

• UPPERS: plum veg tanned leather and rabbit fur
• LINING: black glace kid
• MAKING: 1.5″ heel; 1/4″ sole; black finish throughout; bevelled waist

We think the Harpur ladies boot is a noble addition to our bespoke work. We hope you do too.

These are the walking shoes we made as part of this countryside-inspired collection.

The post Harpur Ladies Boot appeared first on Carreducker.

We made these cracking boots for one of our favourite customers. We love him because he orders really interesting styles with fantastic combinations of colour and material. He also orders frequently which makes him doubly popular!

He chose the tweed to go with a bespoke coat he commissioned from our colleagues in the bespoke department of Gieves and Hawkes on Savile Row where we run a bespoke service. We love these crossovers where the clothing and the footwear evolve together. The outfit looked very striking when it was finished.

Blue boots are an intriguing choice. We absolutely love them, but many customers are concerned that they are hard to combine with the other colours in their wardrobe. Our response is always that a customer should choose something fairly classic and restrained for the first pair and then order what their heart really desires. After all, you can never have too many shoes!

• UPPER Madeira blue lightweight calf and 100% wool tweed
• LINING Crimson glace kid
• MAKING standard heel height; 1/4″ sole; close welt; bevelled waist; natural finish throughout

If you like these boots, you might also like these old favourites of ours

The post Fenchurch Oxford Boot appeared first on Carreducker.

They were a gift for customer from a close friend and so we wanted to make something really special. He chose the palest tan leather that we have to give them a warm weather look. It is an Italian veg tan and as a result, it is soft and great for burnishing.

We also added in a subtle line of 1 mm punched holes along the top line. We think the lime green lining really pops, giving the shoes a thoroughly contemporary vibe.

• UPPER supple, vegetable tanned St Crispin’s baby calf in tan with single row of punching along top line and facings
• LINING lime green kid
• MAKING standard heel height; quarter inch heel; bevelled waist; natural finish throughout

This oxford shoe are made in the same leather. We love them!

The post Furnival Oxford Shoe appeared first on Carreducker.

We used a very heavy substance veg tanned leather in a dark pumpkin. A bold choice for some, but we think it really works. The customer is a globe trotting retiree and he wanted a pair of comfortable boots which he could wear both in the city and in the rugged terrain he favours. Hence the leather sole with a commando sticker sole.

This gives the refinement of a leather sole but with no chance of slipping. The commando sticker sole also raises the boot above the worst of the wet weather

The relatively high throat on the boot also gives some great ankle support on rougher ground and makes them really versatile, equallyat home on the mountain and in the hotel for dinner in the evening.

When we came to the finishing, we used shoe creams to darken the toe and the heel areas to give the boots a slightly worn in look.

UPPERS – heavyweight Italian veg tanned leather in pale tan, darkened with shoe creams

LINING – natural veg tanned calf

MAKING – standard heel height; 1/2″ sole; square waist; storm welt; natural finish throughout

If you like this bespoke derby boot, take a look at these beauties

The post Fanshawe Derby Boot appeared first on Carreducker.

This customer has painful feet and bunions, so, tired of wearing sneakers all the time, he came to us to find a solution to the conundrum of comfort matched to style. If you have similar feet, you will understand the problem he faced. Sneakers with a suit does not always work!

We have the fit just right and we have hidden the unusual foot shape with some foam padding across the vamps. This gives and comfortable fit coupled with a flattering silhouette. The foam flattens out the contours but flexes when his foot does, an elegant solution.

We also used a very soft baby calf to avoid rubbing and improve flexibilty when he walks.

He said we have “changed his life” and that we are “geniuses”. I love my job!

UPPERS: St Crispins Baby Calf in Bracken, fully veg tanned soft supple calf, perfect for burnishing

LINING: Kelly green glace kid

MAKING: Standard heel height; 1/4″ sole; bevelled waist; natural finish on the heel, sole edges and sole

These tan derby shoes are also worth a look if you like a custom derby shoe

The post Boswell Derby Shoe appeared first on Carreducker.

We love shoes which employ interesting combinations. Whether they be colour, texture or material, this is where our creative ideas are expressed. We made these saddle derby shoes for a show a long time ago and they have proved very popular.

This customer chose the same canvas but opted for a cognac veg tanned calf instead of the deerskin we used in the original pair. He also chose a rounder toe which suits his more relaxed wardrobe.

UPPERS – oiled veg tanned goatskin and green canvas. Three perforations in the waist

LINING – natural veg tanned calf

MAKING – standard heel height; 1/4″ sole; bevelled waist; natural finish throughout

If you a fond of a derby shoe, you might like these

The post Cartwright Derby Shoe appeared first on Carreducker.

This leather was a real discovery. We had travelled to see a shoemaker in Derbyshire and this tannery came up in conversation. So we went to visit and discovered this amazing horse front leather. This is the leather that is left when the shells are removed to make the shell cordovan. It is a great leather for shoe making as it is robust yet flexible. We love the natural patterning and soft touch. Completely made in England!

We chose a less patterned piece of the skin for the vamps to give them a classic look but opted for some really deep veining on the quarters to give some contrast.

The yellow slip beading gives them a real pop but is only revealed when the trouser leg lifts, one of the beauties of bespoke shoes. It’s the details that count!

UPPERS – English tanned cordovan, this is the non shell cordovan which has beautiful natural veining.

LINING – Custard yellow glacé kid

MAKING – 1″ heel height; 1/4″ sole; bevelled waist; pulled in waist; inked brown finish throughout

The elegantly slim last makes this custom  oxford shoe dressy, but the yellow slip beading gives them a playful secret. The beauty of bespoke!

These oxfords were made on the same last to give you an idea of what a difference the leather makes

The post Chester Oxford Shoe appeared first on Carreducker.

The brief here from the customer was to design a pair of shoes which he could wear everyday in Monaco but that could also combine with a suit for going out. We chose burgundy because it is so versatile and combines with so many colours, from navy to cream.

The subtle line of brogue punching on the top line lifts them without losing their simple styling. The hole diameter is 1.5 mm which seems small compared to the traditional 2:1 brogue punching but it is a cool riff on classic punching, something our customers come to us for.

The choice with a burgundy Derby shoe is whether to finish the soles and heels in black or brown. Black, as seen here,  is the dressier option. Customers find this a difficult choice to make so we always say that there is no right or wrong in bespoke, only what suits you best. In the end, it’s about your personal style. Bespoke is beyond fashion!

The colour of laces can sometimes cause debate, but we think these pale burgundy ones are great for this style.

UPPERS lightweight burgundy calf

LINING black glace kid

MAKING standard heel height; 3/16″ sole; close welt; black finish throughout

The post Tavistock Derby Shoe appeared first on Carreducker.

The narrow last shape and soft pointed toe also add to the sophistication of the shoes. The shape of the last is really determined by the customer’s measures, and this customer is blessed with long narrow feet. However, we have an array of tricks which can help to make the contours sleeker, from design lines to judicious padding. So you will be safe in our hands.

The trees are made of three pieces of wood which slide together like a puzzle which is very satisfying and classy. All our bespoke shoes come with trees as standard because we think they are essential for the longevity of the shoes.

• UPPER burgundy calf leather by Annonay with brogue punching and toe medallion
• LINING black kid
• MAKING standard heel height; quarter inch sole; bevelled waist; black finish throughout

If you like burgundy shoes, take a look at these derbies

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