This pair are a copy of a pair we made a couple of years ago. The customer fell in love with them but wanted a rounder toe and a blue lining. Your wish is our command, dear customer.

They are made from Siena veg tan calf by Badalassi Carlo, our favourite Tuscan tannery. The royal blue lining is bold and the navy blue tugs on the backseam compliment it perfectly. The customer chose antique brass eyelets and a row of three rivets iin the waist. He originally wanted eyelets in the waist but thought his rainy hometown would mean wet socks too often. The rivets are a good compromise.

UPPERS: Siena Minerva veg tan calf; navy blue leather tugs; antique brass eyelets; antique brass rivets; blue crow's foot stay stiches

LINING: Royal blue calf

MAKING: hand lasted; hand  Norwegian welted; machine stitched sole and heel unit; machine finished; 5/16" sole thickness; sticker sole

If you like these derby ankle boots, check these out from our Bespoke Manufactured range.

The post Silex Derby Boot appeared first on Carreducker.

The customer first came to us wearing a pair of Hoka sneakers which were totally fine in and of themselves. But they didn't really suit his personal style. Subsequently, the reason became clear. He had an arthritic big toe in his left foot which made wearing anything other than the Hokas extremely painful. The Hokas work for him because they have a built in rocker sole which isolated his big toe joint and made walking all day possible for him. The rocker sole alters your gait by preventing the foot from flexing and helps in these circumstances.

But what he really wanted was a pair stitchdown style work boots. Previously every pair he had tried was impossibly painful for him so he came to us hoping to find a solution. And the Blackfriars hybrid boot is the result.

We designed a very simple derby style with a straight cap and a counter. But the real work was in developing the rocker sole. We made it with a lightweight EVA and spent many hours fine tuning the profile to get just the right amount of rock, in just the right place.

Also, we played with the heel strike and gave it a Kickers style slope (if you remember those!)

This pair will find a home in New York and we hope they will be very happy there. The customer had struggled to find work boots to fit so these free him from his sneaker hell.

We think they look pretty cool.

UPPERS: chestnut veg tanned calf leather by Badalassi carlo; straight cap with brougue punching; counter with brogue punching

LINING: burgundy kid quarters and straw veg tanned calf vamps

MAKING: hand welted; Bakers leather through; hand crafted EVA rocker sole; Vibram sheeting sole

If you like the idea of bespoke, please get in touch with us - bespoke@carreducker.com and we will happily talk you through the process.

And maybe take a look at this boot for inspiration.

The post Blackfriars Hybrid Boot appeared first on Carreducker.

We styled them based on the Buckland, our first bespoke sneaker. So they have the same retro lines and long facings, inspired by bowling shoes. We felt we had to play to our making strengths, so the foxing is stitched by hand to a Bakers' insole . As a result, the inside is as cushioned and comfortable as the outside. From day one.

The customer wanted a simple white trainer so we chose a super soft calf with a matte finish, specially designed for sneakers.  Also, we padded the top line to create that classic soft feel of bespoke sneakers. We used our classic veg tanned straw lining leather to match the hand stitched foxing.

We hand stitched a double welt to the insole to create the foxing (the strip of leather around the trainers) and filled it with light flexible EVA. Then we finished the construction with a durable Wellen sole which is easily repairable any number of times. So the Sumner will last as long as your other bespoke shoes. As long as you look after them! So a little shoe cream is all you need.

This pair will find a home in the west of Germany and we hope they will be very happy there. The customer had struggled to find shoes to fit so these are a real treat for her.

UPPERS: matte white calf leather; turned, padded top line and tongue

LINING: straw veg tanned leather

MAKING: hand stitched double foxing; lightweight EVA inner sole; white Wellen outer sole

If you fancy a pair of bespoke sneakers, please get in touch with us - bespoke@carreducker.com and we will happily talk you through the process.

And maybe take a look at these bespoke sneakers for inspiration.

The post Sumner Sneaker appeared first on Carreducker.

This pair are a copy of a much loved pair the customer bought many years ago but which had seen better days. In fact, they were totally wrecked and almost unwearable.

However, when a customer asks us to copy a pair of existing boots, we always ask if we can make a few changes because experiance tells us that an exact copy will lead to disappointment. Much better to make a similar pair but with their own flavour. Also, there are copyright issues involved in copies.

The Chaplin fits the bill perfectly, catching the essence of the previous zip-up boots but with a different aesthetic.

We love the two-tone, specilally in black and grey which is very cool

The customer absolutely loves them and he has already ordered a second pair in brown

UPPERS: Black and grey Italian Softee calf; hand stitched stay stitch; side zip with cover

LINING: Black glace kid

MAKING: hand lasted; hand welted; machine stitched sole and heel unit; machine finished; 5/16" sole thickness

If you like these derby ankle boots, check these out from our Bespoke Manufactured range.

The post Chaplin Derby Boot appeared first on Carreducker.

They are this customer's first pair of bespoke boots and she came in with her father who is an old customer of ours. They were a gift from him, a wonderful, generous gift. You can see the shoes he chose here.

She  arrived with a quandary - ankle boots or knee length boots. After much talk and deliberation, we suggested the best of both worlds - ankle boots with matching gaiters to convert them into knee boots. Perfect! That is the beauty of bespoke, we find solutions.

She had a very clear idea of the aesthetic she wanted which was a play on the classic biker boot - simple styling, thick sole with straps and buckles. We rubbed our hands toger with glee, a project to sink out teeth into.

The boots have two straps with buckles and the gaiters have a third. Both have zips to make them easy to put on and take off.

The gaiter sits on the boot and is strapped under the waist to stop it moving. It is a really ingenious solution and gives her the flexibility she wanted - the best of both worlds indeed!

The leather is black Tempesti veg tan calf from Italy, the same leather as her father's shoes.

All in all this was a fun project for us and she was absolutely delighted with the result

UPPERS: black Tempesti veg tanned calf; two straps with Carreducker buckles; zips

LINING: British Racing Green glace kid

MAKING: hand lasted; hand welted; machine stitched leathger sole;commando sticker sole; commando heel top piece; 3/8" sole thickness

If you like these black ankle boots, check these out from our Bespoke Manufactured range.

The post Baynard Boot And Gaiter appeared first on Carreducker.

The customer came to us with a pair of Diesel hi-tops which were beyond battered, but he loved them and they had sentimental value to him. Now, usuallywe avoid copying existing shoes as it rarely goes well for many reasons. But we liked these trainers and we liked the backstory, so we agreed to make a new pair "inspired" by the originals. And the Secker is the result - we love them!

The Secker hi-tops are hand lasted on a standard trainer last with a low heel and rounder toe, so technically, they are not fully bespoke - the customer was lucky that our standard size 9 fitted him just right. The foxing (the leather strip around the shoe) is hand stitched to the insole, much like a storm welt. We then filled the space behind the foxing with light flexible EVA before finishing it with a durable  rubber sole which can be replaced any number of times so they will be infinitely repairable which is very important to us.

There is a long zip for easy access which renders the laces redundant and they are really only a design feature. We sourced luxury nickel eyelets and incorporated the pockets from the original Diesel trainers as an homage to them. The customer thopught that was a nice touch.

UPPERS: alabaster nubuck; black and white claf additions; padded tongue; padded quarters, zips, nickel eyelets

LINING: black specialist trainer lining which wicks away moisture

MAKING: hand lasted; hand stitched foxing; EVA sole; Wellen outer sole

If you like the Secker hi-tops, you might like these too.

The post Secker Hi-tops appeared first on Carreducker.

Working on our 0743 last, (or your own last by arrangement), you'll learn the techniques and essential measurements to transform your designs into patterns.

COURSE CONTENT

Under the careful guidance of expert practitioner Fiona Campbell you will learn how to:

• Tape up a last
• Measure and mark the key design points onto the last
• Cut the sections off from the last
• Make a standard from the taped last
• Make an Oxford pattern and a Derby pattern from the Standard.

GROUP SIZE

Maximum 3 students

LOCATION

Balham, London (accessible via London Underground - Travelcard Zone3 - and National Rail to London Victoria and London Bridge)

TIME

The Pattern Making Course can be run as a one-to-one course arranged at a time to suit or it can be taken as part of the Carreducker Handsewn Shoe Making Summer School, (alongside a 3-day Upper Closing Course and 12-Day Handsewn Shoe Making Course  so that you can learn all aspects of shoe making).

MATERIALS

All materials included.

FEE

£1199 (less 10% for Carreducker alumni)

BOOKING

Book now and email us to arrange a time to come in to try on a sample pair of shoes to confirm your last size or use your own lasts to make patterns on.

See our full Terms & Conditions here.

The post Shoe Pattern Making Course – Oxford & Derby appeared first on Carreducker.

COURSE CONTENTS

Through trial and demonstration you will be shown just how much preperation goes into making a pair of shoe uppers by hand.

You will be shown how to

• cut out the pattern pieces
• how to hand skive the edges
• how to stitch a seam and an edge
• different edge finishes
• how to use an industrial post machine and a flatbed machine

There will be some time to practice techniques before you put the techniques into practice to make one single Derby shoe upper.

You can bring your own Derby upper pattern or we will provide a pattern for you.

TIMING

(The Closing Course follows on from the 3-day Pattern Making Course and precedes the 12-Day Handsewn Shoe Making Course if you're interested in all aspects of shoe making

Monday - Wednesday

GROUP SIZE

Maximum students: 3

LOCATION

Balham, London (accessible via London Underground – Travelcard Zone3 – and National Rail to London Victoria and London Bridge)

MATERIALS

All materials included

FEE

£1259 (less 10% if you are a Carreducker alumni)

BOOKING

Book now and email us to arrange a time to come in to try on a sample pair of shoes to confirm your size.

See our full Terms & Conditions here.

The post Shoe Making – Learn the fundamentals of Upper Closing appeared first on Carreducker.

COURSE CONTENT

Over 18 intensive days you will learn the core disciplines of handsewn shoe making in three modules - pattern making, closing techniques and making the shoes.

Pattern Making Module: You will make a Derby and Oxford pattern from one last

Intro. to Closing Module: You will have an introduction to stitching on a post bed and a flat bed industrial sewing machine; learn the fundamentals of hand skiving, edge finishes and how to layer the lining and upper pieces; and put your learning into practice to make a single Derby upper

Handsewn Shoe Making Module: You will make a pair of handsewn Derby shoes starting with a pair of uppers, lasts and a pack of leather. We'll guide you, through trial and demonstration, as you discover the techniques of one of the most challenging and rewarding crafts over an intensive 12 days

DATES & LOCATIONS

We can tailor a programme to suit you. Please email us with your goals, dates and availability and we will draw up a plan to suit you.

12 days Shoemaking Module: 9.30am - 5.30pm at the Carreducker Studio, Oxo Tower Wharf, London SE1

3 days Pattern Making Module: 10am - 5pm at the Fiona Campbell Studio, Balham, London SW17

3 days Introduction to Closing Module: 10am - 5pm at the Fiona Campbell Studio, Balham, London SW17

3-Day Bespoke Shoe Pattern Making Module

Over three days you will learn the technical discipline of pattern making, transforming a shoe design into a pattern.

Working on our lasts, (or your own last by arrangement), you’ll learn the techniques and essential measurements to transform your designs into patterns.

Under the careful guidance of expert practitioner Fiona Campbell you will learn how to:

• Tape up a last
• Measure and mark the key design points onto the last
• Cut the sections off from the last
• Make a standard from the taped last
• Make a simple Oxford pattern and a Derby pattern from the Standard.

GROUP SIZE

Maximum 3 students

TIME

10 - 5pm

LOCATION

Balham, London SW17 (accessible via London Underground – Travelcard Zone3 – and National Rail to London Victoria and London Bridge)

3-Day Shoe Uppers Closing Techniques Module

Starting with your Derby shoe pattern, Fiona will show you how a shoe upper is cut out (clicked), prepared and stitched together.

You will learn the techniques used to hand skive, to prepare seams and to create different edge finishes. You will have the opportunity to use industrial flatbed and post machines, to practice techniques, and to learn how the lining and upper pieces go together as you make a single Derby shoe upper lined with natural russet leather.

GROUP SIZE

Maximum 3 students

TIME

10 - 5PM

LOCATION

Balham, London SW17 (accessible via London Underground – Travelcard Zone3 – and National Rail to London Victoria and London Bridge)

12-Day Handsewn Shoe Making Module

Starting with a pair of lasts, Derby shoe uppers and making leather, during some 96 hours of training time, we will guide you through the 200+ steps in the traditional English handsewn shoe making process including:

Hand lasting - pulling the upper over the last (the foot mould shape) and nailing it in place
Hand welting - stitching the strip of welt leather to the shoe
Soling - attaching the shank, filler and leather sole; stitching the sole to the welt
Heel building - building heels from leather, layer by layer
Finishing - rasping, glassing & sanding; polishing or dying and waxing

At the end of the course you will proudly walk away with a pair of shoes that you have made.

GROUP SIZE

Maximum 3 students

TIME

9.30 - 5.30pm with Sundays off

LOCATION

Carreducker, Unit 1.20, Oxo Tower Wharf, London SE1

MATERIALS

All materials included; shoe trees available to order separately. The cost of the course includes all the materials that you need, including a pair of uppers, pack of Bakers of Colyton oak bark leather to work with, a set of course notes and a starter pack of shoe making tools for the shoemaking course.

FEE

18-day Foundation Course £4495

BOOKING

When you book, you will be asked to choose what size and colour shoes you would like to make in the shoemaking module. Please make your selection and then email us to arrange a time to come in to try on a sample pair of shoes or to request instructions for on how to measure your feet, to confirm the best last size for you.

See our full Terms & Conditions here.

The post Foundation Course – Pattern Making, Closing & Shoe Making appeared first on Carreducker.

These were a long time in the making. They are a gift from a wife to her husband for his sixtieth birthday. However, they are slightly unusual in that they already had the bespoke lasts which were a gift for his fiftieth. Poor guy had to wait ten years to get going on his bespoke journey!

When he came in, he arrived on his motorbike in black leathers so immediately thought great, this guy is going to be cool. And so it proved to be. He was not very sure about what he wanted but he knew exactly what he didn't want or like. This is often the way with bespoke customers - choosing the style of shoe is a process of elimination as well as choosing things you like.

He wanted something relaxed, easy to slip on and off and versatile. So, through chatting and looking at samples, we honed down his choices to this rather unique pair of low derby boots

He absolutely loves them and we hope you will too

UPPERS: tan Tempesti veg tanned calf; counter; three lace holes; burgundy backstrap; and classic Carreducker crowsfoot stay stitches

LINING: Burgundy glace kid

MAKING: hand lasted; hand welted; machine stitched sole and heel unit; machine finished;commando sticker sole; 3/8" sole thickness

If you like these derby ankle boots, check these out from our Bespoke Manufactured range.

The post Farnham Derby Boot appeared first on Carreducker.